I don’t believe in sinful pleasures, but the menu does Hank’s burgers and fried fish would fit the bill: hamburgers, cheesesteaks, fried chicken sandwiches and Wisconsin fried fish. There can be a sense of transgression when a chef eschews white fare and makes candid quick food, but Hank’s chef owner Sean Pharr also cooks, which makes him content, at his second restaurant, Mint Mark. But Hank’s takes this pleasure to another level.
Hank’s Restaurant, with no seats or tables, allows you to order takeout or order from the restaurant next door Muskellounge and Sports Club, or the Oxbow, a special event room available for reservation there.
Pharr took advantage of a dilapidated food cart early in the pandemic and used it to serve burgers and chili at Packers games that were shown in the Musky parking lot. By the time people were ready to eat burgers again, the space next to Musky, formerly occupied by Lake Edge Seafood Company, was already available.
Classic Hankburger, 4 oz. The smashburger with caramelized onions and pickles has been slightly refreshed compared to the parking lot days. There is now a special sauce, a riff on every special sauce that has ever existed, neither too sweet nor too salty. Goes with everything. (And in everything – if I have one thing against Hank’s cooking, it’s his extreme nastiness at times.)
The patties have also improved since Hank’s first opened; they now have more of a crispy char, but not at the expense of juiciness. Hank’s also offers occasional, limited-time burger varieties, such as the excellent “I Miss Sujeo” burger with kimchi, gochujang mayonnaise and crispy shallots.
A basic fried chicken sandwich, served with scorching honey mustard and salad, is a hit. A great fried chicken sandwich doesn’t have to be extra crispy if it tastes this good. Of the February specials, an herb sandwich called the Pecking Order with a marinated and fried chicken thigh topped with giardiniera aioli, arugula and tomato showed that frying isn’t the only way Hank’s can make chicken. Although the focaccia roll couldn’t handle all the aioli, the addition lent itself well to the waffle fries.
Waffle fries and onion rings work well to scratch the right itch. The cheese curd was hit or miss; lately they have been greasy and not scorching enough. None of these deep-fried toppings are homemade, but the delicious pimento cheese and cookie dough are. The cheese makes a great dip for frying waffles, a spread for cookies, or a topping for loaded chili. This chili deviates from the Green Bay style; is served without pasta.
Hank’s cheesecake might be the most electrifying item on the menu. Without a doubt the best cheesecake in town, salty, pliable and gooey, with tender beef sliced and chopped, it took me back to the long-dead Big Red’s restaurant on University Avenue. Hank started it as a special dish and has since been added to the regular menu.
Weekly specials make Hanka unmissable. I had a fun fried pollock sandwich with Old Bay, a zingy walleye sandwich with chipotle and arugula, and a perfectly crispy corn-crusted shrimp po’boy.
On Wednesdays and Fridays at Hank’s we serve fried fish with zander, perch or pollock. The walleye are gorgeous, flaky and substantial. Pollock is this side of fish fingers, but in the best sense of the word; it’s buttery and sweet. My favorite was probably the playing card-sized lake bass filet.
Vegetarians and vegans have their own niche in this already focused menu; the burger is available with a “Beyond” patty, and vegan chili is also available for the veggie chili cheese fries.
Hank’s is a quick food stop that requires you to turn off your car to fully enjoy it. It’s not a guilty pleasure, it’s just common sense.
Hank’s burgers and fried fish
4102 Monona Drive
No telephone; Hanksmadison.com
16:00-21:00 Tuesday-Friday, 14:00-21:00 Sat.
$6-18
