Madison has so many Mediterranean and Middle Eastern style restaurants that you could say we’re spoiled. The cuisines draw inspiration from the cuisines of Jordan, Albania, Israel, Algeria, Egypt, Palestine, Tajikistan – and this is not even a complete list.
A recent addition is Common Mediterranean, which opened in August in the former Poke Poke location at Gateway Mall. (Poke Poke moved to 904 Williamson St., sharing space with Feast Artisan Dumpling and Tea House.) It’s an area with no other nearby options in the Middle East. But despite this, the question remains: “Can the Joint Mediterranean Association deliver?” So far, the results are mixed.
The brothers behind The Mediterranean Joint, Ender and Bunyamin Erk, are of Turkish descent. The heart of the menu is generally Middle Eastern, with a selection of meats (gyros, chicken shawarma, chicken kebab, beef kebab or kofta) and a vegetarian option (falafel) served either as a wrap, pita (open-faced, like a tostada) or plate (with rice and salad). The menu is complemented by a wide selection of appetizers and side dishes.
If you have a vast group, a meze plate is a good way to start; it’s a choice of three out of all the appetizers. The recent trio of baba ghanoush, hummus and chips was too much for two guests – I still have a container of leftover hummus in the fridge to take home.
The baba ghanoush was zingy, smoky, and although it leaned more towards red pepper than eggplant, it won the meze. The hummus was okay, but could have had a lighter flavor with less tahini or a little lemon. The plate was filled with triangular pitas that barely fit the generous portions – why can you never have enough pitas with dips? The fries were good, crispy, with a sprinkle of spices. Other options include tabbouleh, stuffed grape leaves, tarator (Turkish sour yogurt with carrots) and haidari yogurt dip with labne and feta.
For main courses, I preferred slim lavash bread from pita wrappers (although pita would probably stand up better to takeout). The wraps are vast, about the size of a burrito, and challenging to eat – the combination of fat from the meat, tzatziki sauce, tomatoes and vegetables makes them challenging to handle. Still, I would choose the beef kebab. The pieces of grilled, marinated beef tasted like a good steak, were a little zingy, and mostly tender (though this varied from cut to cut). The kofta (meatballs) were also zingy, with grilled charcoal. Gyroscopes, also okay, are popular and sometimes sell out.
Although chicken shawarma and chicken kebab are supposed to have different preparations, I didn’t see a difference; both were murky meat and flat compared to the beef. Falafel are crispy on the outside but mushy on the inside; again they feel hefty and a little chalky. I smelled a bit of fresh mint somewhere in there and it would have been a nice touch if it wasn’t so buried. Even if they were fully cooked, I don’t think they could dissuade me from sticking to the lighter Banzo version.
The portion size was also noticeable. The huge wraps could easily be shared between two people, while the pita version of the same sandwich at the same price seemed smaller, tailored to one person. The plates seemed overpriced – the extra $6 to add plain rice and salad wasn’t worth it.
The dining room is pleasant; The soundtrack is contemporary Turkish pop. Place your order at the counter and your food will be brought to your table. Completing Turkish appetizers, splitting a kofta wrap and fries, and finishing the meal with crunchy walnut or pistachio baklava will be a good option until the kitchen gets into full swing.
600 Williamson St.
608-205-7832; themediterraneanjoint.com
$5-17
Every day 11:00-23:00
